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Suzhou Squirrel Fish
Published: January 27, 2026
Editor: Cao Xuewen

Squirrel Fish, also known as Songshu Guiyu, is a signature dish of Suzhou cuisine that brings together color, aroma, flavor, and presentation. Made with fish such as yellow croaker, carp, or mandarin fish, it is deboned, shaped, scored with decorative cuts, deep-fried until set, and then topped with a sweet-and-sour sauce. The dish is named for its resemblance to a squirrel. Golden in color and crisp in texture, it offers a balanced sweet-and-sour taste, with seasoning centered on ketchup, white sugar, and rice vinegar.

According to legend, when Emperor Qianlong traveled south of the Yangtze River and dined at the Songhelou restaurant in Suzhou, the chef deboned a carp, carved decorative patterns into the flesh, lightly marinated it, coated it in egg yolk batter, and gently deep-fried it in hot oil until cooked. Hot sweet-and-sour sauce was then poured over the fish. Shaped like a squirrel, crisp on the outside and tender inside, and delightfully sweet and tangy, the dish greatly pleased the emperor. In September 2018, Squirrel Fish was selected as one of Jiangsu's Top Ten Classic Signature Dishes.

Reviews

"Squirrel Fish is a signature dish of Suzhou cuisine and has long enjoyed a prestigious reputation both in China and abroad. The dish delights all the senses—it is visually appealing, aromatic, flavorful, and beautifully presented. What makes it even more fascinating is the "sound" it makes. When the fried, squirrel-like mandarin fish is served, and hot sauce is poured over it, the fish immediately 'sizzles' like a chirping squirrel." (Reviewed by Oriental Guardian and Henan Radio Network)

"Head held high, tail raised, a cheerful golden hue; shaped like a squirrel, it crackles as the sauce is poured." (Reviewed by Jiangsu Broadcasting Corporation)

"Squirrel Fish features meticulous craftsmanship and an ingenious form. After cleaning and deboning, the fish flesh is turned outward and scored with diamond-pattern cuts, dusted with starch, and deep-fried with the head slightly raised and the tail arched high. Once golden, it is plated and topped with sauce, sizzling like a mouse and resembling a slowly prowling squirrel, truly deserving its place as a famed dish of Suzhou." (Reviewed by Sina Lifestyle)

For Suzhou locals, this dish is not only the grand finale at banquets but also a flavor that carries childhood memories and the city's cultural identity. Whether it is the oft-told story of Emperor Qianlong's southern tour or the "taste of home" ordered without fail by returning natives, Squirrel Fish transcends food itself.

If you visit Suzhou, Songhelou is a must-visit "authentic choice." As a century-old establishment, it is known for precise knife work and rich sauce. For a more down-to-earth local dining experience, restaurants such as Deyuelou and Wu Ji Weiyuanlou are also well worth trying.